Thursday, September 10, 2015

Sept 8 Exploring off the PCT

About 3.5 miles
About 700' vertical gain

Last night I talked with other hikers nearby. Although we had each heard from independent sources that the trail was closed at Forester, our local ranger insists it is open. But she also says it's miserable and that roads are closed, so even if I went through I might not be in a better spot. 

I decided to walk back towards Horseshoe meadows, a spot where I can catch a ride north. But in the meantime I'm camping and exploring along the way.

The ranger was kind of cranky, which I suppose is understandable at the end of the season. She blamed Wild (the movie and book) for a noticeable increase in stupid hiking mishaps. She says they have had quite a few rescues of people making mistakes because of ignorance. Its weird, after almost 4 months of daily hiking, of needing and wanting to get my miles in, to be taking a break. I don't quite know what to do with myself. 

I've set up camp, taken  few dozen pictures, am writing this blog and I still feel like I need to learn how tone present in this beautiful place. 


Wednesday, September 9, 2015

Sept 7 It's a new day


Elevation gain 2376'
Mile 760
19 miles

I woke up hoping I'd be feeling better and in fact I felt great. When I started hiking uphill I was fine. No staggering 100' and collapsing! I think this problem was an acclimatization problem, and yesterday's rest helped. 

I hiked over to trail pass (a possible escape route) and decided to continue on. I have food for the next 150 miles IF I can make 18 mile days. But I've learned that it's much more practical at these elevations to make 15 miles. Without enough food to make VVR I'll have to get off trail at Kearsarge Pass. 

There are more hikers than I've seen in a long time. They all tell me that smoke from forest fires is closing Forester Pass. By the time I reach Rock Creek it's clear I can't go on. But this time it's not my fault!

So I still have 5 days of food, the ranger said I could explore this area, and it's stunning. I think I'll just take a few days and not worry about making my miles. 

I'm camped near a couple of fellows and we have a nice chat around a campfire. 

A rough day

Sunday Sept 6
2200 vertical feet
10.87 miles

My worst day - by far - on the trail. This was like a replay of my last hiking day on Oregon, only much worse. 

It started out well. Last night a Southbounder came by and stopped for the night. His name is Orange Crush, and he has already through hiked the AT this year and should be reaching Mexico by the end of sept. Plus, no hitching, boots on the ground the whole way. And he's a nice guy. 

I slept well and the trail out of camp wasn't too bad. But once again no energy. I would walk 100' stop for a minute, and walk another 100'. I began to worry if I was going to make it out. 

Some other hikers came by and I realized I'm trying for 17 miles day in the roughest section. So I decided to stop early. Shorter days means I won't make my resupply in time, but I can come off the trail earlier if I need to. 

Overall I feel tired, especially when going uphill. So I'm camped early at Diaz creek.     It's a beautiful spot and I hope things improve tomorrow. 

Sept 5 - this is HARD

Sept 5
Mile 739.82
Mileage 17.43 miles
Elevation gain 3233'

It's been about 6 weeks since I was last hiking, and a long time since I have hiked above 10,000'. It's pretty demanding. 

Fortunately the weather is great, although last night was pretty cold at 21F. I'm still hiking in shorts during the day. 

At mile 750 I need to have all my food in the bear can. I borrowed a larger can from trail angel Russ but it is still not enough. The problem is that I'm trying to go 175 miles, steep, high elevation miles, carrying 9 days of food. 


Sept 4 - back on the trail.

Sept 4
Campsite 713.39
8.73 miles, 3.5 hrs
2365' elevation gain
Nice to be on the trail again. Russ drove me to the airport where my missing bag was retrieved. Then we drove 2 hrs to Kennedy Meadows store. When I walked onto the porch I saw Lost and Found! So exciting. He filled me in on trail conditions and I was off and hiking by 3. Camped at Monashe meadows. 

Wednesday, September 2, 2015

Back on the Trail

Back in Late July I was in Northern Oregon, and running out of steam. Fast forward 6 weeks and I am headed out to the High Sierras, hoping to finish a section I skipped back in May.

I'm still not sure what happened in Oregon - perhaps it was poor nutrition, perhaps it was a mental thing, maybe something else - but now I've re-gained some weight and and am curious about seeing the Range of Light. I fly from Buffalo NY to Bakersfield Cal on Thursday September 3 and am being picked up by a trail angel, who is most graciously letting me sleep on his couch. Friday, September 4 he is driving me up to Kennedy Meadows South, where I left my bear vault on Memorial day.

On my last trip through this section there were reports of heavy snow fall. Now, the reports are of meagre water sources. So my challenge for the next few days will be to get 40 miles up the trail past the dry creek beds.

I had planned my food drops for spring, but those have all been repurposed, so my food strategy is changing. I'm hoping to make it straight through to VVR in one go. That's a long ways, about 175 miles. Plus I get the privilege of carrying a bear canister at about 2 pounds. So when I leave Kennedy Meadows I'll have an unwieldy load. (Plus the altitude, which jumps right up to 10,000' plus in the first few days and crosses passes that exceed 13,000'. What was I thinking?)

On the plus side, bugs are reported to be negligible, river crossings will be non-events, crowds will be thinning, and, I'll be in the high Sierras!

Wednesday, July 29, 2015

Off the Trail

Here's the short version: I'm off the trail for this year.

Here's the longer version. While I was still enjoying myself, I found it harder and harder to make the miles I used to make, and need to make to stay on schedule. I was simply out of gas. Previously, I would be on the trail by 6 or 6:30, and by 10 I would have made 9 or 10 miles. Now I found I was making 5 miles in that time, and I wasn't enjoying myself. This happened day after day after day - simply out of gas.

Central Oregon had been a great break from the trail. I spent two days (two rainy days!) with Dory, and then a third rainy day with an old climbing pal. He dropped me off on the trail, I walked a day and a half past the Three Sisters (10,000' + volcanic peaks where I used to climb and explore) amongst absolutely beautiful scenery, and was picked up by another old friend who lives in the town of Sisters. Together he and I slack packed (hiked without packs) from McKenzie Pass to Santiam Pass, with both evenings spent at his very comfortable house. I got plenty of rest in Central Oregon.

After I started hiking North from Santiam Pass I had a hard time keeping going. Conditions were fine, the trail was nice, but I had no energy for hiking. By the time I got beyond Jefferson Park, I was thinking about bailing out. At Highway 26 I managed to sweet talk my way into a ride into Portland.

I'm not sure what or why this happened. I have lost more than 30 pounds, and while I was in great physical shape I'm pretty sure I am not in good nutritional shape. Maybe nutrition played a bigger role for me than I had expected.

Over the course of 3 months I had walked just over 1400 miles. Due to snow I skipped ( and want to return and complete) the high Sierras. I skipped the 220 miles from Old Station to Etna (Hat Creek Rim and the area around Shasta) when I left to attend a wedding. I hiked most of Oregon, only missing the final 60+ miles to Bridge of the Gods. And of course, I've missed all of Washington.

I like the idea of becoming a section hiker, and am looking forward to spending 3 or 4 weeks in the coming few  years doing these missing sections. In a way, it's like being able to continue my relationship with the trail and the trail community a bit longer.

Three Finger Jack from the south

wildflower and rotting tree

Camp in Jefferson Park

Mt Jefferson from above Jeff Park

Wildflower

Mt Hood

Saturday, July 11, 2015

Hot - and cold, July 10


The last section I completed, with Kit, was hot, and as I resumed hiking solo it remained hot. As in 85-100 deg F. That kind of heat really sapped my energy, and it wasn't easier with big miles I needed to clock. 
I made plans to meet dad at Willamette Pass on July 8, not figuring until later that this entailed 183 miles in 8 days. So I had to make 3 days with 27+ miles per day. This really sapped my energy and I found myself wondering why I was killing myself out here.  After Crater Lake I slowed down to 20 mpd, and this was better, but it's been a rough patch of trail for Papa Razi!
In crater lake I saw two girls I remembered  from earlier. They didn't recognize me until I said my trail name. 'You know Papa Razi?' They asked. 'I AM Papa Razi' I responded, and they hadn't recognized me at all. 
On July 10 I made the 20 miles into Elk Lake in 8 hours in pouring rain. Not pleasant. I'm recuperating in bend for a few days with her and thinking "why don't I just go home now?" But I have more of Oregon I need to see so I'll keep soldiering on. 
Trail south of McLoughlan

My Theilson

Rosary lakes

My camp 

Coffee in Bend during rain storm


Tuesday, June 30, 2015

Oregon border


June 28
Yesterday was another killer hot day, starting with a 3000' climb up the ridge. The view made up for the sweat, however, and there were tons of wild flowers along the trail.

We stopped at 17 miles where we ran into some botanists who gave us a few beers and some cherries.

Today started a bit rainy which kept the temperatures much more moderate. I maybe coming down with a cold, which is taking all my energy. After lunch I felt better and we enjoyed more wild flowers.  We also saw a yearling bear, with a beautiful golden coat. Tomorrow is the Oregon border!






Hot Hot Hot!

June 27 
The southern sections of the PCT are supposed to be hot - the Anzo Borrega desert, the Mojave - but I never anticipated that Northern California would be hot. 

As we hiked down into Seiad the temperature rose to 103 f. and it was brutal. Both Kit and I felt our energy drain away. Fortunately we had to take off boots to cross the river several times so we were able to cool off. At every small stream we stopped to splash water on our faces and drench our shirts. Even so, it was difficult. 

We reached Grider campground after 18 trail miles and swam in a pool in the river. The next 6 miles were a road walk with no traffic; we walked 3 miles before flagging down the first passing car. 

There were 5 other hikers at the RV Park where we camped.






Friday, June 26, 2015

Back on the Trail

The wedding was a most satisfactory affair, but it's time to get back on the trail. Monday we had a wonderful diner breakfast and by 2 pm Kit and I were on a plane headed for Sacramento. Tuesday we boarded a Greyhound bus for what was supposed to be a 6 hour ride to Weed. Unfortunately for us we were stuck in Redding for 3 hours without a driver! Eventually we made it to Weed where Emory, a local trail angel, picked us up and drove us to the trailhead.

We walked two miles and camped on a beautiful ridge. We are back in the mountains!


Wednesday morning we started hiking, stopping often to admire the view and the wild flowers. This day was pretty much always at around 6300 feet with spectacular views.


By 3:30 we were at mile 1622, a great spot with nice campsites and plenty of running water. We've walked 14 miles and the next spot with water is another 8 miles. Since it's our first day out we are taking it easy and spending the night here.


Monday, June 22, 2015

Wedding Break

It's been a while since I've posted. Our oldest son married a wonderful woman last Saturday and we had a great time. 

But now it's time to get back on the trail, and I'm really excited that our younger son Kit is joining me. We'll be getting on the trail at Etna and he's hiking as far as Ashland. It's possible this may be the last time I am in better shape than my kids!



Saturday, June 13, 2015

Taking a break in Denver

Hiking the PCT has gone well, but it's time to focus on our eldest son's upcoming wedding. I reached Old Station, California (PCT mile 1377) and hitched into Redding, California, where I took an Amtrak train north to Oregon to visit my father and my brother. On Thursday June 11 I flew to Denver where I was happily reunited with Dory and both sons - the family is reunited!

I've enjoyed hiking this latest section, although there have been quite a few blow-downs which slowed me down considerably. One highlight was reaching Mt Lassen and the Drakesbad Guest Ranch. It was the last night before they opened for the season. I arrived as they were serving dinner in a final dress rehearsal. I was given a glass of wine and a wedge salad, followed by prime rib and caramel cake for desert, all gratis! The manager said he thinks their guests like being inspired by PCT hikers. We followed this by a hot shower and a swim in the thermally heated pool.

A beautiful section of trail.

a random note, very sweet

A meadow along the trail

South of Mt Lassen

Ukelele playing along the trail

Passing through a burned section from a previous forest fire.

Looking back on Mt Lassen

Sunday, May 31, 2015

Bright Gaters

 I'm afraid that there is a misapprehension about my new shoes. The brightly colored things are called gaiters, made by Dirty Girl Gaiters. It is made of Lycra and serves to keep dust and rocks out of my shoes.  I've been wearing them from the start and they are a huge help.

Since my break in Reno I've fallen behind my hiking buddies and am now hiking alone. The landscape in the Northern Sierras is beautiful and I'm enjoying the first solitude of the trip. It is really stunning with small lakes nestled into the hillside.

Thursday, May 28, 2015

Trail break

I made it to Sierra City, Cal. on May 25. Despite the very pleasant hiking conditions I was in need of a break. My hiking shoes were shot (over 750 miles and torn) and I somehow managed to get some dust in my right eye which got scratched.

Dory's high school friend Abby J and Mark came to my rescue, picking me up from Sierra City and bringing me to their home in Carson City NV via the REI in Reno.

I visited the doctor in Reno and learned I have a scratch on my conjunctiva (the white part of the eye). The doctor gave me a prescription for fancy eye drops. Fortunately it's a minor problem.

Vista from the trail


Hikers at the store in Sierra City

Sunday, May 24, 2015

Mile 702

Mile 702, the Kennedy Meadows General Store, is a major landmark for PCT hikers. It signals the end of the Southern California Desert and the beginning of the High Sierras. Reaching this spot also means we have hiked slightly more than one quarter of the trail.

This year has been exceptionally dry, and I have grown used to hiking 30 or more miles without encountering water.

However, ironically, there is a lot of fresh snow in the high sierras. There are many reports of hikers being turned back. As a result a few of us are skipping forward to Donner Pass and will hike north. I want to enjoy these mountains and I think it will  be better without snow and ice.


Friday, May 15, 2015

Not a hobo!

I'm in Tehachapi doing a resupply at Albertsons. Outside, at a bench , I was approached by a lady who tried to give me a few bucks. "I just want to help out those less fortunate". "Oh no, I'm a hiker not a hobo!" I said.

Actually, I kind of feel like a hobo.

Above the Mojave

Walking next to the LA aqueduct.


Tuesday, May 12, 2015

The Andersons

ITrail angels are special, unique people. Some of the offer rides, some stock water caches, and some open their homes to hikers. We are currently staying at the Anderson's, near mile 478. 

I wasn't planning on coming here, but as I joined a few others at the highway a pickup stopped and asked if we needed a ride to the Andersons. A sign from the fates.
The Swiss guy

Kind of like a hippy heaven.

Not sure what's going on here.

Evidently there is a free taco salad dinner every night!

Sunday, May 10, 2015

A typical day

Here is what a typical day on the Southern California PCT is like for me.

4:30 wake up, make coffee, eat granola, pack. Leave by 5:30 (light enough to see)

9 or 10 a.m.  take a break along the trail. Depending on the terrain I might have made 8-10 miles.

1 pm lunch break maybe 30-45 mins

4 pm late break. Plan for camping spot

530-6 pm camp. Set up tent, collect water if available, cook. In tent in sleeping bag no later than 730. 

With this routine I make 17-24 miles a day, depending on elevation gain.

Sleep. Repeat!


Some random flower pics

Spring is pretty nice in the desert. Here are some flowers I've shot






Snow

Dave sent a photo last Tuesday, May 5 and a quick text message the next day, but then I didn't hear anything for a few days.  He was up at a fairly high elevation (notice that I didn't say altitude, @andymention?) in the most remote part of the trail so far, so there wasn't much mobile coverage.

Here's where he was on Tuesday, near Wrightwood, California:





And then it got cold.


He looks a bit miserable, but a little dapper too -- he trimmed his beard somewhere along the way.



He hit some snow, but the lupine didn't seem to mind too much.




And he passed a major milestone -- or stones, as it turns out, as well as pinecones and snow -- 400 miles!




When he sent these photos on Saturday night, he had just finished a 24 mile day and was at mile 436.  He was out of the snow and was planning on hiking half a day to a KOA at Acton, California.


"Los Angeles North?"  Are you kidding me?  
The red line is the trail.


Here's a map of the PCT showing roughly where he is:

If you're interested, it's kind of fun to look at the PCT on Google Earth because you can zoom in and see where Dave is walking.  Once you open Google Earth, you will need to download a spatial file, for which you can find the link here on a webpage from the US Forest Service.  I used the one called Google Earth KML.  

Also mentioned on the Forest Service page is the Pacific Crest Trail Map Brochure which has a great map in it and lots of other cool info if you are becoming a PCT nerd like I am. 


Monday, May 4, 2015

Iced Coffee


Here's the morning view on the trail today:






May the 4th be with you...







But here's the big landmark of the day: Cajon Pass, where I-15 heads north from the sprawl of San Bernadino County and into the Mojave Desert on its way to Vegas.  Still a long way to go...



When you're hiking the PCT, you can pretty much eat whatever you want, especially when you've hiked 16 miles by 2:00 in the afternoon.  So you'll forgive Dave for seriously slurping an iced coffee at the McDonald's at Cajon Pass.  According to Wikipedia, "it is famous among hikers" (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cajon_Pass).











When you're in charge of the blog,
you can publish whatever you want.
--ed.



Also, he pointed out that the next 25 miles would be without a water source, so his pack was a lot heavier when he left Cajon Pass than it was when he arrived.